Active vs Passive Investment

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You may remember we talked a little about trade-offs already. Well another investment trade off is active vs passive strategy. This is a trade-off we are hearing more and more about these days. Fifteen years ago, almost nobody was talking about index funds and Exchange Traded Funds (ETFs). You would either buy stocks and bonds directly; or you would buy a mutual fund, run by a manager who was benchmarked against “the market”. Hedge funds were only just becoming accessible to regular investors, rather than being for sophisticated or high net worth investors only.

You may have heard about a bet that Warren Buffet made almost 10 years ago: He bet that a passive investment in the S&P 500 index would beat any given portfolio of hedge fund strategies over a 10 year period ending December 31st 2017. The only takers were an alternative investment specialist firm called Protege Partners LLC, and there is a million dollars riding on it to go to the winner’s charity of choice.

So how’s it going? Well, in truth it’s not even close. Despite starting the bet before the 2008 financial crisis the S&P 500 is sitting on a return of 85.4%. (7.41% p.a.) The hedge funds average is 22%. (2.2% p.a.)

So what can we learn from this? Well here are a few lessons:

  • It’s time in the market that matters, not timing the market.
  • Fees really matter – the hedge funds have performed ok, and with lower volatility. But an annual fixed fee and 20% performance fees are going to eat into investor returns.
  • You have to hang in there! Think back to 2008 – the housing crisis, Lehman Brothers goes down, the stock market plunges, it feels like the end of the world…and you just invested a chunk of your savings in the S&P 500! Be honest here, would you have sat on that bet and waited? It’s easy to say yes with hindsight, but an awful lot of people sold investments at the bottom of the market, when despair was at its highest, and then sat out in fear and missed the big rebound.

So does this bet settle the active vs passive investment debate? Well, not exactly. Hedge funds vs the S&P 500 is not really a good comparison. If, however,  it was US large-cap mutual fund managers vs the index, then we would be comparing apples with apples. According to this article, 66% of large-cap managers failed to beat the index in 2016, and if you lengthen the time period, the numbers just get worse. And out of the managers who do beat the index over a three year period, only about 5% go on to beat the index over the next three years. So we can conclude that it’s very hard to beat the market.

So does this mean we should just lump all of our money into an equity index fund?Although there are worse things you could do, it’s not a very balanced approach. Getting a diversified blend of different asset types, and rebalancing this blend over time, can help smooth out returns, lower risk, and make it easier to sleep at night when the stock market takes one of its downturns. We will look at this in more detail in future posts.

 

So what returns should I expect?

 

Ok, we have covered the different asset classes, and we have understood that the basic minimum benchmark is inflation in our base currency. So how are these assets likely to behave over time relative to that benchmark? Well three of the asset classes are correlated to inflation and to each other, so although we can’t predict exactly, we have a pretty good idea what they will do over time in a particular base currency:

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Take a look at the diagram above. It shows a rise in the cost of goods and services (inflation) over time. The first thing to note is that in the short term we really have no idea which asset will perform the best. We do know that cash will at least hold it’s value. Stocks, on the other hand, could rise or fall significantly. So, if you have a pile of money and are planning to do something important with it in the next 12 months, like make a down-payment on a house, you would be ill-advised to invest this money in the stock market. It might go down 30%! Therefore money for short term needs should stay in the bank.

Over the longer term, you won’t make money in cash. As you can see, cash tracks inflation to preserve your spending power, but it won’t increase it. If inflation is 2%, you might earn 2.5% in the bank. In Japan, where inflation is near zero, interest on a cash deposit is also very near zero. So if you want to make money over the long term, you have to take some risk.

One way you could take some more risk is by lending money to the government. The price of bonds may fluctuate over time, but in order to attract investment, bonds will pay a better return than cash. Note here that all bonds are not the same. A Japanese government bond may pay low interest, but there is little chance of default. A Venezuelan government bond may pay outstanding interest (10.43% p.a. on a 10 year issue at the time of writing), but there is a greater risk you won’t get your money back at the end of the term. Likewise corporate bonds carry higher risk than bonds issued by solid governments.

If you are looking for still higher returns, then it’s time to invest in the stock market. Although stocks are unpredictable in the short term, historically they outperform over a long period of time. This is because over time the economy and population tend to grow, and workers become more productive. This economic ground swell makes businesses more profitable, which drives up stock prices.

Although the other asset classes are uncorrelated and less easy to chart here, they can add valuable diversification. In building your own investment strategy there are a few things you need to take into account here:

The first is your base currency. The second is your time frame, which may vary from one investment objective to another. And the third is how you feel about the ups and downs in each of these asset classes, otherwise know as your attitude to risk. The better you understand the behaviour of different investments over time, the more you may find you are comfortable taking risk on a certain portion of your capital.

Striking the right balance between the different asset classes and maintaining that balance over time is know as Asset Allocation, a subject we will cover in future posts.

Are my investments any good?

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How do you know if an investment you have made is doing well or not? How can you tell if it’s worth paying an investment manager rather than just buying an index fund? Is 8% per year a good return?

 

The simple answer to each of these questions is, it depends what you compare it to. You need to have something meaningful to measure an investment against in order to gauge how it is doing. This is known as benchmarking. Whether you realise it or not, you are probably already familiar with some benchmarks:

  • MSCI Global Index – covers global stocks
  • S&P 500 – covers US stocks
  • FTSE 100 – covers UK stocks
  • Nikkei 225 – covers Japan stocks
  • Citi World Government Bond Index – covers global bonds

So a mutual fund manager running a US Growth Stock fund might be benchmarked to the S&P 500 index. If he is underperforming the index, he is not worth paying fees to. If he is outperforming the index his fund will be popular. If he is getting a wildly different result to the index then he is doing something very strange and likely won’t keep his job for long!

So is 8% a good return? Well it partly depends on what your expectations are. The S&P 500 has returned, on average, 7.1% per year over the last 10 years, so 8% seems like a pretty good return. However, if your goal was to be aggressive and get a 20% return you might still be disappointed. In 2008 the S&P 500 fell by 37%. Even a 1% return that year would be nothing short of exceptional!

So how should the average investor benchmark their investments? I would say the basic minimum benchmark should be inflation in your base currency. Inflation is defined as the rise in the cost of goods and services over time, and is the reason we don’t just lock our money in a safe. Take a look at the table below showing the effect of inflation on $100:

Inflation erosion

We are currently living in a low-inflation environment, particularly if you live in Japan. However, if you look at the historical average, 3% is a good guide. So at 3% inflation, if you put your $100 under the mattress for 20 years you will still have $100, but it will only buy you $54.38 in goods and services. The spending power of your money has almost halved!

One thing I will stress here is that we are talking about inflation in your base currency. If you are living in Japan, but you are planning to retire in Australia, for example, don’t be fooled by the low inflation rate in Japan. Back home the current rate of inflation is 2.1% and rising. Keeping money in your Japanese bank account is not only a currency risk, but you are losing 2.1% per year in spending power!

Investment trade-offs

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There is no such thing as the perfect investment. They all come with advantages and disadvantages, or trade-offs.

One of the simplest explanations of these trade-offs I have heard goes as follows:

Any investment you make needs to balance three factors: low risk, high returns, and liquidity. You can have any two of these but not all three.

If you want high liquidity (easy access to the money) and low risk you are going to have to sacrifice high returns. Your money is going to be in something like a savings account.

If you want high liquidity and high returns you are going to have to take a lot of risk. This could mean an investment in stocks that could go down significantly in the short term.

If you want low risk and high returns, no-one is going to give you that unless they are able to keep your money for a long time. The best performing hedge funds and capital guaranteed products often have lock-ins, preventing investors from withdrawing their money for a fixed period.

Another trade off to consider is capital versus income. Some investments provide capital growth, but little or no income. Income generating investments may have lower prospects for capital growth. Before investing it’s important to understand which is best for you at your current stage in life.

One more trade-off to consider is absolute versus relative return. Absolute return is what an investment returned over a particular period. If a mutual fund returned 10% over the last 12 months is that a good return? Well, it depends on what the rest of the market returned. If the market returned 18%, then 10% is not particularly good. In fact in relative terms it’s a minus 8% return. Active fund managers are benchmarked in this way in order to gauge their performance. We will talk more about benchmarks starting tomorrow.

 

 

The Six Asset Classes

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Depending on who you ask, you will find that there are varying opinions on the different types of assets out there that you can invest in. In my opinion there are six basic asset classes, plus an extra category we may call “alternatives”.

The main point here is to avoid confusion with investment products. There are thousands of products available, all packaged up with pretty brochures and power point presentations, but the majority of these products are simply investing in one or more of the six basic asset classes.

Let’s start with some simple definitions:

  1. Cash – a means of exchange and a store of value.
  2. Bonds – government or corporate debt.
  3. Equities – stocks and shares representing an ownership interest in a company.
  4. Property – a building or buildings and the land belonging to it or them.
  5. Commodities – raw materials or primary agricultural products that can be bought and sold.
  6. Collectables – items valued and sought after by collectors.

Cash is sometimes confused with currency, but they are not the same thing. If I have ¥10,000 and I step outside my house in Japan and wander into town, I can exchange this for goods and services readily. If I get on an plane and fly to the UK, can I do the same at my destination? The answer, of course, is no. I first need to exchange my Japanese Yen for British Pounds, and this is done at a market determined rate that can fluctuate from minute to minute. The JPY I hold has become a commodity that can be bought and sold.

Bonds are complex instruments, but they have some basic characteristics we can recognise: they have a creditor, who is the bond holder, and a debtor, who is the bond issuer. Bonds have a face value, which represents the amount of principal the bond holder will receive at maturity, and is the amount the issuer pays interest on. They also have a market value, which is what people are willing to pay for them today. They have a maturity date, when that nominal face value amount is typically repaid. They also have a coupon, which is the interest rate the issuer pays to bond holders.

Most people are familiar with the idea of equities or stocks in publicly traded companies. However, it is also possible to own stock in private companies, known as private equity. Private equity is not a separate asset class, however it is less liquid and carries different kinds of risks to investing in listed companies.

For some people property is the simplest asset to understand because it is tangible – you can see it and touch it. Property comes in many different forms: land, buildings, houses, apartments and even collective investments. It’s possible to buy a property fund or Real Estate Investment Trust (REIT) that gives you exposure to the asset class, but with a lower investment amount and potentially higher liquidity. The ability to borrow money to invest in physical property makes it a potentially powerful asset class.

Commodities are exciting due to the high level of price fluctuation, or volatility. This means there are many opportunities to buy low and sell high and make money. It’s also very easy to get it wrong and lose money. Commodities used to be for expert traders only, but these days, with the advent of Exchange Traded Funds (ETFs), it’s simple for anyone to invest in gold, oil or even coffee.

Collectables are about more than just a hobby. An educated investor can make incredible returns  buying and selling artwork, stamps or antiques. However it takes a significant level of knowledge and expertise to make money in collectables and it’s easy for amateurs to get duped. You may want to hang onto that heirloom your grandparents handed down to you though!

As I said, the majority of investment products can be fit neatly into one or a combination of these six categories. However there are “other” investments that may not fit in perfectly. Hedge Funds have long been touted as an asset class all of their own, although I would argue that most hedge funds simply invest in a combination of the above asset classes, albeit it an innovative or original way.

For the average individual investor, concerned with saving and investing for their future, a solid understanding of the six basic asset classes, and the risks and trade-offs associated with them is more than enough to get them started on the path to building wealth.

 

 

 

The Power of Compounding

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I’m a keen golfer. How about we bet on a game of golf? Say 10 cents a hole? How about we double that every hole? It wouldn’t be for big money right?

Let’s take a look hole by hole:

  1. $0.10
  2. $0.20
  3. $0.40
  4. $0.80
  5. $1.60
  6. $3.20
  7. $6.40
  8. $12.80
  9. $25.60
  10. $51.20
  11. $102.40
  12. $204.80
  13. $409.60
  14. $819.20
  15. $1,638.40
  16. $3,276.80
  17. $6,553.60
  18. $13,107.20!

Well, as they say…that escalated quickly!

 

(Credit to Tony Robbins Wealth Mastery for this one)

Retirement Planning – Where to start?

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People save money for many different reasons, but perhaps the most common reason is for retirement. The goal here is to replace income from work with income from investments. It can seem like a daunting task to plan for such a large need, particularly when people these days are far more mobile and may not necessarily know where they will spend their later years.

Here are some simple questions you can start to consider now. Don’t worry if you can’t answer them all yet. Some of them may even have more that one answer:

  • At what age do you anticipate retirement?
  • What country do you plan to make as your base in retirement?
  • Do you want to maintain a similar standard of living in retirement to the one you have now? – simply put do you think you will need the same income, less income, or about the same income as you have now?
  • What value of property would you want in today’s terms?
  • Which assets have you “ear-marked” for retirement planning?
  • Do you think these assets will be adequate?

People tend to underestimate the amount of money they are likely to need to retire securely. Some advisers will say you need a pot of ten times what you earn currently. However, if you are working on current interest rates that is not going to last very long. If you currently earn $100,000 per year, then that’s a million dollar pension pot. Going on historic averages, let’s assume you can earn 5% per year on your capital. That gives you an income of $50,000 per year, or half of what you are earning now. However, the current US base rate is only 1%! A million dollars is only going to earn you $10,000 per year in this environment. The current UK base rate is only 0.25%…

Of course we don’t know where interest rates will be in 20, 30 or 40 years time, but surely it is better to plan conservatively? The number you should really be aiming for is more like 20 times your current income. So a person currently earning $100,000 per year needs $2,000,000. Now two million dollars is a lot of money, but don’t be disheartened. If you start saving and investing early you have the power of compound interest on your side.

If you want to get into more detail on calculating retirement needs, there are a lot of resources available online. Here’s a really simple and easy to use calculator from Vanguard for a start. It’s a US based calculator so it may not be best for everybody. I just like the way you can use the sliders to adjust the variables and see how it affects the end result. If you don’t like it then just google financial calculator and find one that works for you.

Protection Review

 

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We mentioned earlier the three basics of financial planning: emergency cash reserve, basic protection, and some kind of pension. Below is a list of items to consider when reviewing if you have adequate protection in place:

  • Do you have an emergency cash reserve to cover at least 3-6 months expenses?
  • Do you have adequate health insurance?
  • Do you have any income protection insurance, in case you are sick or injured for the long term?
  • Do you have any critical illness insurance, in case you are diagnosed with a serious illness? (heart disease, stroke, cancer etc.)
  • Do you have any loans / liabilities that are not insured?
  • Do you have children? If so, have you considered life insurance?
  • Do you have a current will? Does it include all of your worldwide assets?
  • Have you reviewed your estate planning needs?

Obviously getting all of this done in one go is going to be tricky, so I would suggest making sure you have at least the first three in place before you consider making investments. The rest you can work on as you go.

Inspiration and information

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If you are serious about attaining financial freedom and peace of mind, I encourage you to read and study as much as possible. Below are some recommendations; some classic, some ultra-modern, to help you get started. Feel free to share any good books you have read on the subject:

Think and Grow Rich: The Original, an Official Publication of The Napoleon Hill Foundation

– A classic on personal development and personal improvement. I would encourage just about everyone to read this book.

Rich Dad Poor Dad: What The Rich Teach Their Kids About Money That the Poor and Middle Class Do Not!

– Another long seller. Learn the difference between working for money and having your money work for you.

Rich Dad's Cashflow Quadrant: Rich Dad's Guide to Financial Freedom

– Not as well known as Rich Dad Poor Dad, however I think it’s a better book. It certainly changed my outlook on working for income vs owning and investing in businesses.

Unshakeable: Your Financial Freedom Playbook

– Brand new and right up to date. Tony Robbins teaches how to invest safely in this modern, unpredictable era. With insights from some of the world’s top investors and business minds. At 256 pages, this is pretty much bite-size by Tony Robbins standards.

MONEY Master the Game: 7 Simple Steps to Financial Freedom

– And here’s the long version. At 688 pages there isn’t much that has been left out of this one…

 

My Financial Profile – Asset Weighting

 

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Welcome back! So far you have completed your Income and Expenditure and Balance Sheet. Now it’s time for the last part, Asset Weighting.

Take a look at the last tab of My Financial Profile. It’s not as confusing as it may look. The percentages in the left-hand column are simply a guide. This is what I would recommend as a good balance between fixed, medium term and current assets.

You will see that the recommendation is for 10-20% in net fixed assets. For most people, this is held in their own home, and it’s not possible to sell half a house if you suddenly need some liquidity. If you have expertise in property and want to hold more than 20% in net fixed assets, particularly if it’s generating you a nice income, that’s perfectly fine. The 10-20% is just a guide.

I have also indicated 10-20% as the recommended weighting to current assets. What we are really talking about here is your Emergency Cash Reserve. (see here if you need a reminder what this is) We are currently in a low-interest rate environment, and I don’t see great benefit in holding lots of cash, particularly if you live in Japan, where interest on bank deposits is near zero. One reason you may hold a larger weighting of cash is if you are saving for a deposit on a home. This money is really just waiting to be moved to the net fixed assets part of your balance sheet.

This leaves 60-80% in medium term assets, which is anything you are saving and investing for your future. It’s quite rare that I meet people who already have this weighting in medium term assets. If you are just getting started then it may in fact be very low. Even people on high incomes are often highly concentrated in cash and their own home.

So now it’s time to input the numbers from your balance sheet. Under Asset Weighting, Amount, in the third column, enter the totals from your balance sheet for Net Fixed, Medium-term and current assets. Circle whether you already have your Emergency Cash Reserve covered. (Y/N)

Now you can total your Net Worth. Hopefully you like the number you see here, but remember it’s a work in progress.

Now it’s simple to work out your current weightings as a percentage in column four. If you have $200,000 in fixed assets and your total net worth is $1,000,000, then your fixed asset weighting is 20%. (200,000 ÷ 1,000,000 x 100)

So how does your asset weighting look? Is it close to the guide in the left hand column? Are you heavily overweight in a particular area? If so, then the Target Weighting in column five is your action plan. Here you can input the way you want it to look.

For example if your current weighting looks like this:

  • Fixed assets – 10%
  • Medium-term – 10%
  • Current – 80%

Then perhaps you need to adjust your target weighting to:

  • Fixed assets – 10%
  • Medium-term – 70%
  • Current – 20%

This means you need to invest some money! There are two ways to do this: obviously you can take money from your current assets and invest it to balance things out. You can also take money from your monthly surplus over expenditure and invest that every month.

The lower box will help you to determine where your current disposable cash flow goes each month. In the left-hand box, insert your monthly / annual net disposable income. This is the last number on the income and expenditure page. Now you can examine where this money actually goes every month. Is part of it making extra payments on your mortgage? In that case it’s going into net fixed assets. Does it just go into your bank account and sit there? That would explain how you got to be overweight in cash!

It’s surprising how many people I meet where their disposable income flows 100% into current assets. I would encourage these people to consider investing on a monthly basis – the column for Future Amount is where they can decide how much to contribute each month.

As a general guide, the maximum amount I think you should contribute to medium term assets from your monthly surplus is 50%. Simply put, if you are saving $2,000 a month, and it’s all going into cash, then you can consider investing up to $1,000 per month into medium term assets. Any more than that and you may run into trouble if suddenly hit with an unexpected expense, or drop in disposable income.

Hopefully this is all clear and you have completed your asset weighting and understood what changes you need to make. Please let me know if you get stuck!